On one of my journeys around Inishowen in the wonderful Donegal, I stopped for a quick coffee-break and of course, to stretch the legs, as they would say. Entering a lovely little shop, I made my way over to one of those fancy-looking machines, the automatic self-service coffee maker. Oh, to modern technology. Filling the cardboard-cup with a freshly brewed Americano, I began to wrestle with the white plastic lid, trying desperately hard not to spill any. When I eventually achieved success with the lid, I proceeded over to the counter and paid for my freshly filled Americano. A kind young lady was standing behind a small wooden counter and she greeted me with a smile.
“Good Morning”, she said in a gentle Donegal accent.
“Is that tea or coffee?”
I had just replied “coffee”, when I noticed facing out toward me on the counter, were small brochures showing an amazing-looking Fort on the front cover. My curiosity began to gather momentum and the kind young lady lifted a copy with the words, “Fort Dunree” on the front and handed one over to me. Reading on, it was situated about seven miles north of Buncrana on the coast. My mind was made up. I was off to “Fort Dunree” because there seemed to be a magnetism with this place that had certainly captured my attention. I said farewell to the young shopkeeper and thanked her for the kind hospitality.
I drove out along the coast, following the signs for ‘Fort Dunree’. The site is situated along the shores of Lough Swilly and commands majestic views of the Lough and its shoreline. Reaching the old Fort, I went on a tour inside and began to read literature telling the story that Theobald Wolfe Tone, who was a founding member of the United Irishmen, was brought ashore here in 1798 and a small fort was erected to guard against the possible return of a French invasion fleet.
In the late 19th Century, the fort was modernised and enlarged with the building of the “Top Fort”, on Dunree Hill. During World War I, it stood guard whilst Admiral Lord Jellicoe’s Fleet anchored in Lough Swilly, prior to engaging the German Navy at the Battle of Jutland. Although Ireland became a Free State on the 6th December 1922, control of the Fort was retained by the Royal Navy until the 3rd October, 1938. There is a feeling of so much history here and when you look out over the Lough, you can imagine the scene back in 1916 when it was filled with Royal Navy warships.
The Fort Dunree heritage museum complex was originally opened to the public in 1986, and has provided interest for the tourists of all ages ever since. A Discovery Point on the Wild Atlantic Way, Fort Dunree houses a Military Museum, Wildlife Discovery Room and a network of walkways that are a must for any visitor to the Inishowen Peninsula. Kayaking and Water sports are also available in association with Inish Adventures and to relax after your tour, there is the most scenic Coffee Shop in Ireland! Can you really handle the excitement? My journey was complete with a haunting glimpse of the Fort on the way out. I would say there could be strange sightings here on a cold dark night. A visit I definitely wouldn’t take up on my own.
For more info on Fort Dunree, visit their website
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Author Brian Kermode 